We welcome you to email us your garden tips to share with others on our website.
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Early Spring
Watch for emerging shoots. Divide and conquer.
Watch for Early Shoots and Get Them Ready for Spring - Once the snow is gone, take time to sit outside and watch for your emerging plants. Once you see shoots somewhere from 2-4 inches tall, you can begin to divide them. But first you need to prepare the ground.
For your existing beds, clear old plant debris, work the ground a bit, and add a nice layer of new mulch. Do not over mulch. You want to leave some space for the sprouting root mass of each plant so mulch around but not over emerging shoots.
For new beds, spread a 6-inch deep layer of organic matter over the entire bed area. You can use peat moss, compost, or manure. Make sure you work the organic matter deep into the ground.
Divide and Conquer - Most perennials can be divided every two to three years. Dividing is the process of lifting your established perennial out of the ground, loosening the root system, and making more plants from the one perennial. If the root system is large, you can also cut it. Carefully sink your shovel in the ground, loosen the soil deeply around the perimeter, and lift the plant. Now you can divide the plant. Keep in mind that division helps control the plant's size, energizes the plant, and also creates more plants. Don't be afraid to divide and conquer.
We are here to help you. If you are not sure what plants you should divide, please email us at -
grassrootgardens@yahoo.com
For your existing beds, clear old plant debris, work the ground a bit, and add a nice layer of new mulch. Do not over mulch. You want to leave some space for the sprouting root mass of each plant so mulch around but not over emerging shoots.
For new beds, spread a 6-inch deep layer of organic matter over the entire bed area. You can use peat moss, compost, or manure. Make sure you work the organic matter deep into the ground.
Divide and Conquer - Most perennials can be divided every two to three years. Dividing is the process of lifting your established perennial out of the ground, loosening the root system, and making more plants from the one perennial. If the root system is large, you can also cut it. Carefully sink your shovel in the ground, loosen the soil deeply around the perimeter, and lift the plant. Now you can divide the plant. Keep in mind that division helps control the plant's size, energizes the plant, and also creates more plants. Don't be afraid to divide and conquer.
We are here to help you. If you are not sure what plants you should divide, please email us at -
grassrootgardens@yahoo.com
...And Now for the Archives - Seasonal Tips
Fall is for Planting - Here are our tips.
When is the best time to plant trees and shrubs here in WNC? Many people would answer SPRING but............FALL is really a wonderful time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. So let's think about this for a little bit then get started!
Cooler temperatures (yes, they will be here soon) will help your newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials get nicely rooted. Lower humidity is a plus too. Getting your plants into the ground in the fall gives them a chance to grow their roots now so they will be better established and ready to grow even more when the spring season arrives. The root systems will be larger and will help the plants be stronger throughout the summer.
Carefully evaluate your landscape and be sure to discuss your needs with our Grass Root Gardens team. We are eager to help you and welcome you to come by and talk to us.
Know your growing conditions - - -
Cooler temperatures (yes, they will be here soon) will help your newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials get nicely rooted. Lower humidity is a plus too. Getting your plants into the ground in the fall gives them a chance to grow their roots now so they will be better established and ready to grow even more when the spring season arrives. The root systems will be larger and will help the plants be stronger throughout the summer.
Carefully evaluate your landscape and be sure to discuss your needs with our Grass Root Gardens team. We are eager to help you and welcome you to come by and talk to us.
Know your growing conditions - - -
- How much sun and shade do you have?
- If your area is part sun and part shade, when is it sunny and for how long?
- Is your soil mostly clay?
- Have you tested your soil?
- Does water drain from your area quickly or slowly after a good rain storm?
Summer Has Arrived!
Here are some garden watering tips.
Be mindful of the weather report. Plan ahead and see when and how much rain is predicted for your area. When there is little or no rain predicted, start your watering regime. Vegetables will not thrive without water so watering your garden correctly during the heat of summer is very important. Here are some tips:
Water vegetable plants two to three times a week when the days have been very hot. Tomatoes are especially sensitive. Tomatoes can crack when you water after a drought. To avoid this try to keep the deep root system consistently moist. Letting the soil become "bone dry" then watering then repeating this pattern is not good for your vegetables. When watering, allow the water to go deep within the soil so that it reaches the deep roots, away from the hot soil surface. Measure the best you can and try to give your vegetable plants at least one inch of water during your water cycle. When there is no rain at all, daily watering may be necessary.
Identify a plant in your garden that will warn you when watering is needed. This should be a plant that tends to dry out and wilt earlier than the others. if the leaves are droopy, it's time to water. In a vegetable garden, you will often see the squash, cucumber, or melon start to wilt because of the size of their leaves. The larger the leaf, the quicker the plant will lose moisture. with a little luck, you will water the garden in time and not have any wilted plants.
Try not to wet plant leaves when you water to avoid risk of disease. If you water in the early in the morning any wet leaves will dry early and quickly.
Do what you can to keep water in the ground where the deepest roots are growing. Having a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, like finely ground bark, or pine needles will provide a barrier between the moist soil and the hot sun. This will slow down evaporation and act like a shade cloth to hold moisture in the ground and keep plant roots cool.
Water vegetable plants two to three times a week when the days have been very hot. Tomatoes are especially sensitive. Tomatoes can crack when you water after a drought. To avoid this try to keep the deep root system consistently moist. Letting the soil become "bone dry" then watering then repeating this pattern is not good for your vegetables. When watering, allow the water to go deep within the soil so that it reaches the deep roots, away from the hot soil surface. Measure the best you can and try to give your vegetable plants at least one inch of water during your water cycle. When there is no rain at all, daily watering may be necessary.
Identify a plant in your garden that will warn you when watering is needed. This should be a plant that tends to dry out and wilt earlier than the others. if the leaves are droopy, it's time to water. In a vegetable garden, you will often see the squash, cucumber, or melon start to wilt because of the size of their leaves. The larger the leaf, the quicker the plant will lose moisture. with a little luck, you will water the garden in time and not have any wilted plants.
Try not to wet plant leaves when you water to avoid risk of disease. If you water in the early in the morning any wet leaves will dry early and quickly.
Do what you can to keep water in the ground where the deepest roots are growing. Having a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, like finely ground bark, or pine needles will provide a barrier between the moist soil and the hot sun. This will slow down evaporation and act like a shade cloth to hold moisture in the ground and keep plant roots cool.
Read about North Carolina native plants. Here is a starter list of plants to consider.
Plant Native.org
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Look around your yard and garden. Are you surrounded by leafless trees? Snow adds texture to the landscape but it may get to the point where you are simply tired of staring at leafless trees.
Here are several plants that will add color and texture to your winter garden:
Flowering quince
Witch hazel
Juniper
Winterberry
Holly
Snowdrop
Boxwood
Helleborus (Christmas rose)
Flowering quince
Witch hazel
Helleborus
Winterberry
Snowdrop
THE TEN LAWS OF GARDENING
1. Nothing ever looks like it does on the seed packet. 2. Your lawn is always slightly bigger than your desire to mow it. 3. Whichever garden tool you want is always at the back of the shed. 4. The only way to ensure rain, is to give the garden a good soaking. 5. Weeds grow at precisely the rate you pull them out. 6. Autumn follows summer, winter follows autumn, drought follows planting. 7. Evergreens go a funny shade of brown in the winter. 8. The only way to guarantee some colour all year round is to buy a garden gnome. 9. However bare the lawn, grass will appear in the cracks between the patio paving stones. 10. "Annuals" mean disappointment once a year.
------------------------------------- David Heaton, webmaster Organic Gardening From Down Under -------------------------------------
1. Nothing ever looks like it does on the seed packet. 2. Your lawn is always slightly bigger than your desire to mow it. 3. Whichever garden tool you want is always at the back of the shed. 4. The only way to ensure rain, is to give the garden a good soaking. 5. Weeds grow at precisely the rate you pull them out. 6. Autumn follows summer, winter follows autumn, drought follows planting. 7. Evergreens go a funny shade of brown in the winter. 8. The only way to guarantee some colour all year round is to buy a garden gnome. 9. However bare the lawn, grass will appear in the cracks between the patio paving stones. 10. "Annuals" mean disappointment once a year.
------------------------------------- David Heaton, webmaster Organic Gardening From Down Under -------------------------------------
Scroll to the bottom of this page to see the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zone Map.
Your Fall Garden
It's fall and a great time to think of annual flowers. Annuals provide long-lasting color in your garden and fill in those empty areas with absolute beauty. Plus, when they fade out you can always pull them and add new annual flowers. Keep the color coming during this transitional season, up until the first frost. Some annuals will continue to add spots of color throughout the winter months and remain into early spring (with a bit of clean up).
Annual flowers planted now will provide instant color through the first frost. Some annuals continue to produce over the winter and become the foundation of your early and mid spring garden.
Annuals to Consider for Fall Include:
Annual flowers planted now will provide instant color through the first frost. Some annuals continue to produce over the winter and become the foundation of your early and mid spring garden.
Annuals to Consider for Fall Include:
- Ornamental Kale and Cabbage - Plant ornamental kale and cabbage in early fall in a sunny (rich/moist) spot before the temperature gets too low so they can become established. You will be surprised to see that the colors of these beautiful plants will be enhanced after several early morning frosts.
- Pansies - Pansies can be found in a wide variety of colors including yellow, blue, orange, and purple Plant pansies in full sun to part, and with a little care, you will be able to enjoy their colorful display from early fall until early spring.
- Violets
- Leafy Cool Season Chard
- Chrysanthemums, like pansies, come in a wide variety of shapes and colors including orange, maroon, red, and yellow.
- Petunias
- Begonias
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We also have perennial grasses for your fall garden.
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Fall Trees and Shrubs
Grass Root Gardens has a complete stock of fall trees and shrubs. Please visit us and take a look.
Inventory includes:
red maples
sugar maples
dogwoods
burning bush
Henry's garnet
wide variety of evergreens (trees and shrubs)
rhododendron
hybrid flame azaleas
....................and coming soon...............blue spruce
Inventory includes:
red maples
sugar maples
dogwoods
burning bush
Henry's garnet
wide variety of evergreens (trees and shrubs)
rhododendron
hybrid flame azaleas
....................and coming soon...............blue spruce
The Heat of Summer is Back in Force
We have been experiencing some of the hottest days of the summer season in our mountains recently. Although we continue to have cooler evenings in Western North Carolina than many areas of the country, our daytime temperatures are still climbing quite high.
Have you started thinking about heat tolerate plants? Here are some suggestions:
Blanket Flower - Gaillardia
Low growing annual with colorful fringed flowers. Flowers are in shades of red, yellow and gold.
Coleus
This annual can tolerate very high daytime temperatures and strong full sun. Coleus can grow to 24-36 inches tall and 12-14 inches wide.
Cosmos
Cosmos do very well in hot and and dry conditions. This annual comes in a variety of sizes and colors. Some get as tall as 2-3 feet. Cosmos make very good cut flowers and they re-seed easily.
Sunflower
The sunflower can grow up to 10 feet and always seeks out the sun.
The list is goes on and on but, for now, here is a short list with more plants to consider -
Blackberry Lily, Blanket Flower, Bugleweed; Butterfly Bush, Coneflower, Daylily, Dianthus, Heuchera, Hollyhocks, Hosta, Poppy, Tickseed, and Zinnia.
Have you started thinking about heat tolerate plants? Here are some suggestions:
Blanket Flower - Gaillardia
Low growing annual with colorful fringed flowers. Flowers are in shades of red, yellow and gold.
Coleus
This annual can tolerate very high daytime temperatures and strong full sun. Coleus can grow to 24-36 inches tall and 12-14 inches wide.
Cosmos
Cosmos do very well in hot and and dry conditions. This annual comes in a variety of sizes and colors. Some get as tall as 2-3 feet. Cosmos make very good cut flowers and they re-seed easily.
Sunflower
The sunflower can grow up to 10 feet and always seeks out the sun.
The list is goes on and on but, for now, here is a short list with more plants to consider -
Blackberry Lily, Blanket Flower, Bugleweed; Butterfly Bush, Coneflower, Daylily, Dianthus, Heuchera, Hollyhocks, Hosta, Poppy, Tickseed, and Zinnia.
Why We Garden
The garden offers us a glimpse of a new definition of the sacred that embraces the individual, the community, and the Earth as aspects of the same unifying spirit.
The local garden seeks nothing else but a style based on a sense of place. Sometimes it proposes that the best style is no style at all.
Jim Nollman - Why We Garden
The local garden seeks nothing else but a style based on a sense of place. Sometimes it proposes that the best style is no style at all.
Jim Nollman - Why We Garden
Unassuming Astilbe
Astilbe (also known as false spirea) may very well be one of your garden's more modest perennials. It's bright flowers of varying colors and lush green foliage add a burst of color to any garden spot. In the mountains of Western North Carolina, all you need is filtered light.
Astilbe are really quite shade tolerant. You do not need too much sun for astilbe to show their colors. These perennials are very easy to grow and their flowers will be feathery plumes of red, lavender, pink, or white. Do not let your astilbe become too dry. Think of astilbe as more fern-like. Too much full sun will burn the foliage.
It's springtime so NOW is the time to fertilize your astilbe. Use a balanced fertilizer and go ahead and snip off the flower heads when they've bloomed throughout the season. They make lovely cut flowers. Don't shy away from cutting because astilbes flower for a long period of time.
Astilbe are really quite shade tolerant. You do not need too much sun for astilbe to show their colors. These perennials are very easy to grow and their flowers will be feathery plumes of red, lavender, pink, or white. Do not let your astilbe become too dry. Think of astilbe as more fern-like. Too much full sun will burn the foliage.
It's springtime so NOW is the time to fertilize your astilbe. Use a balanced fertilizer and go ahead and snip off the flower heads when they've bloomed throughout the season. They make lovely cut flowers. Don't shy away from cutting because astilbes flower for a long period of time.
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Great Plants for Your Winter Garden
Your garden designing doesn't have to end when the colors of summer fade. You can have a garden landscape that is touched by color that can rival that of early spring. Most importantly, you need to start by choosing the right plants for winter. Look for contrast in plant shapes, sizes, bark texture, and berry color. Consider perennials and bulbs that have vibrant seedheads, colorful foliage, and, in some cases, winter blooms. Here are some suggestions -
Bergenia - Cold weather changes the broad evergreen foliage to a deep burgundy.
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Winter Aconite - The surprising yellow flowers of this cold weather shrub will give you an early hint that spring is around the corner.
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Maiden Grass "Huron Sunrise" - Late summer burgundy plumes will continue to show through winter. Be sure to grow in full sun.
and more trees and shrubs for winter . . . |
Tall Sedum "Autumn Joy" - Grow in full sun and well-drained soil. The dusky pink to rust-red flowers of Autumn Joy will show color starting in late summer and the flowerheads will remain through winter.
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Paperbark Maple; Yellow Twig Dogwood; Witchhazel; Winterberry
Late Summer Garden "To Do List"
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Waynesville, North Carolina, and our surrounding mountains, are in Zones 6a and 6b (reference USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map - see bottom of this page). As you reflect on the seasons our zones, moving from spring to summer to fall, please be mindful of some gardening tasks you can do to keep your late summer garden lush and inviting. Garden maintenance never ends. Remove weeds before they set seed. Deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage continuous blooms. Check for insect pests and treat accordingly. Remove any fallen leaves that can harbor insect pests. Apply deer repellent where necessary. Pruning and fertilizing tasks. Cut back leggy annuals. Feed needle and broad-leaved evergreens with iron chelate if leaves are yellowing. Prune summer flowering trees and shrubs after flowering is complete. Continue to fertilize chrysanthemums weekly until buds show color.. Continue to fertilize annuals and container plants each month. Lightly prune overgrown hedges and deciduous shrubs. Continue to deadhead roses and fertilize them to encourage last new growth and hardening off before first frost. Planting continues. Propagate herbs for new growth and prepare pots for bringing herbs indoor for winter use. Plant late-season annuals for fall color. Plant broad-leaved and needle-leaved evergreens up until the first frost. And - Begin to think about cutting flowers for drying such as delphinium, larkspur, love-in-a-mist, lavender, pom pom dahlias, strawflower, and roses. Our next Garden Tip will discuss How to Dry Flowers. |
Tulips
Planting Bulbs in the Fall for Spring Color
It is time to think about planting bulbs.
September through early November is the time to plant bulbs for early spring flowering. Fall flower bulbs include tulip, daffodil, bearded iris, crocus, hyacinth, and allium.
Planting flower bulbs is fast and relatively easy. As soon as your garden ground starts to cool begin your planting. You can plant bulbs throughout your garden. Just make sure your soil drains well in the selected areas.
Prepare the planting beds by digging the soil so it is loose. Add some organic matter such as mushroom compost. Plant your bulbs with the pointy ends facing up. Smaller bulbs can be planted 5" deep and larger bulbs can be planted 8" deep. Plant bulbs in clusters so you have nice condensed areas of color. Low bulbs should be planted in front of the higher ones.
Final Tip - Keep the labels next to the planted areas, so you know what to expect, then be prepared to enjoy an early spring concentration of color.
It is time to think about planting bulbs.
September through early November is the time to plant bulbs for early spring flowering. Fall flower bulbs include tulip, daffodil, bearded iris, crocus, hyacinth, and allium.
Planting flower bulbs is fast and relatively easy. As soon as your garden ground starts to cool begin your planting. You can plant bulbs throughout your garden. Just make sure your soil drains well in the selected areas.
Prepare the planting beds by digging the soil so it is loose. Add some organic matter such as mushroom compost. Plant your bulbs with the pointy ends facing up. Smaller bulbs can be planted 5" deep and larger bulbs can be planted 8" deep. Plant bulbs in clusters so you have nice condensed areas of color. Low bulbs should be planted in front of the higher ones.
Final Tip - Keep the labels next to the planted areas, so you know what to expect, then be prepared to enjoy an early spring concentration of color.
Daffodil
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Hyacinth
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Bearded Iris
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Add a Little Bling to Your Salad
Discover Microgreens
Hon Tsai Tai
Micro Greens (microgreens)
Coming Soon - The Grass Root Gardens table at the Waynesville Farmers' Market? This summer and fall we plan on being there every Saturday featuring Microgreens (micro greens).
What are Micro Greens?
Micro Greens are tiny plant shoots picked just after the first leaves have developed. Their delicate, fresh appearance will enhance your meals by adding taste and beauty. Micro Greens are used as a fresh flavor accent, providing interesting colors, flavors, and textures to any dish. A little bit goes a long way.
Nutritional Value
Young seedlings harvested less than 14 days after germination, Micro Greens contain up to 40 times higher levels of vital nutrients than their mature counterparts. Nutrients include beta-carotene, lutein, and vitamins C, E, and K.
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Late July To Do List
Spirea
- Fertilize roses in July and each month throughout the summer.
- Prune summer blooming shrubs for shape after they have finished flowering and remove dead branches.
- Do not prune azaleas or rhododendrons at this time of year to protect buds for next year's blooms.
- Evergreen and deciduous shrubs may be shaped to keep plants full to the center and stay within their garden space. Stop pruning in late August. New growth from late pruning can be harmed in winter.
- Continue to mulch and water during long hot, dry periods.
- Prune maples and birch and other trees that bleed when pruned in late winter or spring.
- Cut back summer flowering shrubs to encourage next year's blooms.
- Fertilizer container plants every week to 10 days and keep them watered - may need to water twice a day if in full sun and no rain.
- Keep removing weeds! Don't let weeds go to seed or you will have double the weeds next year.
Pebble Pathway - Grass Root Gardens
Shade Garden
Bloodroot
How Much Shade for What Plant?
Shade plants can be enjoyed from early spring to early fall. If you have a light area in your garden that is completely shaded for 2 to 4 hours between 10 am and 6 pm, you can use a LIGHT SHADE plant. PART SHADE means your area receives 4 to 5 hours of shade during this same time period. FULL SHADE lasts all day long.
On a warm and humid afternoon, sit and relax in a shady spot in your garden and enjoy the following shade loving perennials, all found at Grass Root Gardens:
Bloodroot, Brunnera, Celadine Poppy, Coral Bells, Yellow Corydalis, Lady Fern, Golden Sedge, Spotted Deadnettle, and Solomon's Seal
This is just a sample list. Stop by Grass Root Gardens to see others.
Shade plants can be enjoyed from early spring to early fall. If you have a light area in your garden that is completely shaded for 2 to 4 hours between 10 am and 6 pm, you can use a LIGHT SHADE plant. PART SHADE means your area receives 4 to 5 hours of shade during this same time period. FULL SHADE lasts all day long.
On a warm and humid afternoon, sit and relax in a shady spot in your garden and enjoy the following shade loving perennials, all found at Grass Root Gardens:
Bloodroot, Brunnera, Celadine Poppy, Coral Bells, Yellow Corydalis, Lady Fern, Golden Sedge, Spotted Deadnettle, and Solomon's Seal
This is just a sample list. Stop by Grass Root Gardens to see others.
Brunnera
Yellow Corydalis
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Celandine Poppy
Lady Fern
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Coral Bells
Bowles' Golden Sedge
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Spotted Deadnettle
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Variegated Solomon's Seal
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Hydrangea Hints
Choose a hydrangea that's cold hardy for your garden zone.
Plant your hydrangea in early summer or early fall.
Read the plant tag for sun and water requirements.
Plant your hydrangea in a spot where it will have lots of space to grow. Hydrangeas grow vigorously. You want to try not to prune it so you can have large beautiful flowers.
Plant your hydrangea only as deep as it was in the pot when you bought it.
Water your hydrangea well for the first couple of years so it can develop strong roots. Be sure the area is well drained because hydrangeas do not like standing water and should not be kept too wet.
Fertilize your hydrangea twice a year with 10-10-10. If you prefer, you can fertilize once a year with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Commercial manure or compost is always a good thing for your hydrangea.
If you follow these hints, your hydrangea are sure to be happy. Enjoy this beautiful shrub.
Plant your hydrangea in early summer or early fall.
Read the plant tag for sun and water requirements.
Plant your hydrangea in a spot where it will have lots of space to grow. Hydrangeas grow vigorously. You want to try not to prune it so you can have large beautiful flowers.
Plant your hydrangea only as deep as it was in the pot when you bought it.
Water your hydrangea well for the first couple of years so it can develop strong roots. Be sure the area is well drained because hydrangeas do not like standing water and should not be kept too wet.
Fertilize your hydrangea twice a year with 10-10-10. If you prefer, you can fertilize once a year with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Commercial manure or compost is always a good thing for your hydrangea.
If you follow these hints, your hydrangea are sure to be happy. Enjoy this beautiful shrub.
Pruning Knock Out Roses
Did you buy your Knock Out rose shrub at Grass Root Gardens yet? We still have some wonderful rose plants available in our nursery stock.
When purchasing your Knock Out roses, make sure your selection is right for your garden and USDA zone. Knock Out roses need 6-8 hours of daily sun, good growing soil, correct spacing between plants, and quality care throughout their growing cycle.
Here are some pruning tips.
Knock Out roses are shrub (bush) roses. They require basis pruning to bring out their best in appearance and growth. Pruning your rose bush improves the health of the bush and quality of the blooms. In Haywood County, USDA Zone 6, first pruning is best done during the later part of March. A good rule of thumb is to prune when the forsythia is in bloom. At this time of year (late winter), healthy shoots can be cut back by one-third to one-half, depending on how vigorously your rose bushes grew the previous season. It is best to prune them to about two feet below the height best suited for your garden.
Now, during the growing season, if your bushes lose shape and several shoots become much longer than others, it is time to prune them. Make sure your pruning cuts are at angles. Cuts should be slanted away from the bud, about 1/4" above an outward facing leaf bud. Take height and width into consideration when you are pruning. In order to increase air circulation and help prevent diseases, also be sure to prune your bushes in the center. If there are two stems (canes) crossing each other, remove one to prevent rubbing. This will eliminate spots that could be prone to disease.
Be careful and thoughtful when pruning. Proper and timely pruning will encourage your Knock Out rose shrubs to making flowers instead of regrowing too much lost foliage.
When purchasing your Knock Out roses, make sure your selection is right for your garden and USDA zone. Knock Out roses need 6-8 hours of daily sun, good growing soil, correct spacing between plants, and quality care throughout their growing cycle.
Here are some pruning tips.
Knock Out roses are shrub (bush) roses. They require basis pruning to bring out their best in appearance and growth. Pruning your rose bush improves the health of the bush and quality of the blooms. In Haywood County, USDA Zone 6, first pruning is best done during the later part of March. A good rule of thumb is to prune when the forsythia is in bloom. At this time of year (late winter), healthy shoots can be cut back by one-third to one-half, depending on how vigorously your rose bushes grew the previous season. It is best to prune them to about two feet below the height best suited for your garden.
Now, during the growing season, if your bushes lose shape and several shoots become much longer than others, it is time to prune them. Make sure your pruning cuts are at angles. Cuts should be slanted away from the bud, about 1/4" above an outward facing leaf bud. Take height and width into consideration when you are pruning. In order to increase air circulation and help prevent diseases, also be sure to prune your bushes in the center. If there are two stems (canes) crossing each other, remove one to prevent rubbing. This will eliminate spots that could be prone to disease.
Be careful and thoughtful when pruning. Proper and timely pruning will encourage your Knock Out rose shrubs to making flowers instead of regrowing too much lost foliage.
Does Your Apple Tree Have Cedar-Apple Rust?
Do the leaves on your apple tree have circular yellow spots on the upper surfaces? These yellow spots generally appear shortly after bloom. In late summer they are brownish clusters or threads that appear beneath the yellow leaf spots or on fruits and twigs. If you see this on your apple tree, your tree has cedar-apple rust.(Gymnosporangium juniperivirginianae).
Susceptible apple tree varieties: All apple trees are susceptible to cedar-apple rust but the following are highly susceptible- ‘Jonathan’, ‘Rome’, ‘Wealthy’, ‘York Imperial’, and ‘Golden Delicious’.
Cedar-apple rust (CAR) is an important fungal disease east of the Rocky Mountains. It can defoliate trees and blemish fruit. Wet, rainy weather in early spring is conducive for twig, leaf and fruit infection of these deciduous hosts. Heavy rains within the first two weeks of budbreak and leaf expansion cause the disease to be more severe. As the disease progresses, the undersides of the leaves below the yellow spots will develop raised orange structures that will ooze from the center, turn black, and appear as black dots. In late summer, this area will produce the orange and brown rust-colored spores that infect the juniper host, completing the cycle. Severely infected leaves may drop prematurely, especially during a dry summer.
What to Do? Use Preventive Fungicide
The use of a fungicide spray is preventative. It will protect the apple tree's developing foliage from infection. If the spots are already visible, and you did not have a chance to tree the before infection, the fungicide spray will also help in the early stage. Most manufacturer's recommend applying the fungicide spray every seven to ten days until your apple tree leaves are clear.
Susceptible apple tree varieties: All apple trees are susceptible to cedar-apple rust but the following are highly susceptible- ‘Jonathan’, ‘Rome’, ‘Wealthy’, ‘York Imperial’, and ‘Golden Delicious’.
Cedar-apple rust (CAR) is an important fungal disease east of the Rocky Mountains. It can defoliate trees and blemish fruit. Wet, rainy weather in early spring is conducive for twig, leaf and fruit infection of these deciduous hosts. Heavy rains within the first two weeks of budbreak and leaf expansion cause the disease to be more severe. As the disease progresses, the undersides of the leaves below the yellow spots will develop raised orange structures that will ooze from the center, turn black, and appear as black dots. In late summer, this area will produce the orange and brown rust-colored spores that infect the juniper host, completing the cycle. Severely infected leaves may drop prematurely, especially during a dry summer.
What to Do? Use Preventive Fungicide
The use of a fungicide spray is preventative. It will protect the apple tree's developing foliage from infection. If the spots are already visible, and you did not have a chance to tree the before infection, the fungicide spray will also help in the early stage. Most manufacturer's recommend applying the fungicide spray every seven to ten days until your apple tree leaves are clear.
What Can I Plant in My Home Garden?
The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 separate zones; each zone is 10°F warmer (or colder) in an average winter than the adjacent zone. If you see a hardiness zone number on a plant identification card, it refers to this USDA map.
Western North Carolina is Zone 6 (see green A and B below) on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. At Grass Root Gardens we carry plants specific to our area, however, many of our plants may be suitable for areas north and south.
Our customers often ask us if a plant they are considering is suitable for their home garden. Simply ask yourself this question - "Do I see this plant where I live?" If the answer is yes, buy it and plant it.
Western North Carolina is Zone 6 (see green A and B below) on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. At Grass Root Gardens we carry plants specific to our area, however, many of our plants may be suitable for areas north and south.
Our customers often ask us if a plant they are considering is suitable for their home garden. Simply ask yourself this question - "Do I see this plant where I live?" If the answer is yes, buy it and plant it.
